Clifton Crag

(909 57l near Dumfries - SMC Lowland Outcrops Guide)

Clifton is one of Southern Scotland's best kept secrets. South facing, quick drying, close to the road and in a beautiful location: its only weak point is the diminutive stature of the climbs. However, these pack such a punch into their short length that they are guaranteed to leave you just as drained as a 50m pitch would on most other crags.

Please keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.

All information on Clifton Crag and the local climbing that follows was provided by ()Stephen Reid
- Thanks..

The Climbing

[Hollowstones Wall] [Dirl Chimney Area] [Jigsaw Buttress] [Main Wall] [Twin Cracks Buttress] [Jugular Vein Buttress] [The Thirlstane]

HOLLOWSTONES WALL

At the far left hand end of the crag is a yellow wall, flanked on the left by a hawthorn tree, and with a pleasant gearing up area below.
Sideshoot 15m VS
Pleasant climbing.
(4b) Starting just left of the tree, gain the undercut slab from the left and follow it. finishing up a shallow groove in the wall above.
Sidekick 15m Hard Severe *
(4b). Take the groove behind the tree, finishing up the steep crack.
Aqualine 15m E1
Artificial, but still enjoyable none the less. Start as for Jeune Ecole at the shallow, blocky chimney-crack just right of the tree. (5b). Start up the crack but move left immediately and up to a hollow below the upper crack of Sidekick on the left side of the arete. Move horizontally round the arete to the right and climb it to join Jeune Ecole.
Jeune Ecole 15m Severe ***
Superb. Start at a shallow, blocky chimney-crack just right of the tree. Climb the crack to a platform on the right. Climb the steep crack in the wall to gain a standing position on a ledge on the left. Traverse to the arete and finish up a groove.
Overground 15m Severe *
Start just right of Jeune Ecole and climb the wall to the platform. Climb the crack of Jeune Ecole to the ledge and continue directly up the crack and groove above.
Outcast 15m HVS
Strenuous.
(5a). Follow Overground to the platform. Climb the thin overhanging crack 1 metre to the right of Overground, to pull out left onto that route. Easily rightwards to finish.
Infill 10m El
The thin crackline between Outcast and the upper section of Hollowstones Chimney is climbed by devious means. Start from the grassy platform as for Outcast, gained by climbing the first easy section of Jeune Ecole. (5b). Climb 2m up Hollowstones Chimney and make a technically bewildering move leftwards across a slab to gain a short slanting crack and ultimately easier ground to the top.
Infill Direct 10m E2
(5c). The direct start - strenuous!
Hollowstones Chimney 15m Hard Severe *
(4a). A good if worrying climb. The open, bramble-filled groove right of Outcast proves more difficult than it looks and the chimney above is aptly named.

DIRL CHIMNEY AREA

A path leads up and rightwards to a bay behind an oak tree.
Gramercy 13m MS **
An enjoyable pitch gained either from the foot of Dirl Chimney, or from the top of Jeune Ecole.
(4a). Climb the short crack on the very left edge of the bay (to the left of the start of Dirl Chimney) and following an easy ramp up leftwards to a huge block. (The same point can reached from below the short wall at the top of Jeune Ecole by traversing rightwards 10m.) Climb the crack forming the left side of the block to a ledge. Follow the crack on the right onto the front of the buttress and climb directly to the top with difficulty when it peters out. (It is also possible to continue the traverse rightwards. finishing as for Dirl Chimney). (Taking the crack on the left from the ledge reduces the grade to V Diff. It is also possible to traverse into the top of Dirl Chimney and so avoid the final move.)
Dirl Chimney 13 m VS ***
A classic! Dirl means "A tremulous stroke; a sharp blow; a resonating sound ; an anxious haste or hurry; a twinge of conscience; an exhilarating pleasure of mind and body". All these, and more, may happen when you undertake this interesting exercise in back and footing up the chimney on the left hand side of the bay. Start below and left of the chimney at a crack with a wobbly block in it.
(4c). Climb the crack without hesitation, deviation or repetition and move rightwards into the chimney. Follow it over a roof to easier slabs.
Monkey Business 13m EI *
Spectacular. Start under Dirl Chimney.
(5a). Climb the corner crack on the right and fight up leftwards via brambles and dubious rock to a junction with Dirl Chimney. Fix a runner and swing sensationally right via a hollow flake to pull round into the top section of Lemur. Leftwards to the top.
Lemur l3mE3 *
(6a). Strenuous and sensational climbing up the sharp arete and through the roof right of Dirl Chimney finishing right then left.
Gibbon in Wonderland 13m HVS **
A classic of the ilk! Start opposite the oak tree (5a). Traverse up and right across a slab to finish up the fist-sized crack
Blazing Apostles 15m E2 *
(5b). Good strenuous climbing up the twin cracks in the overhanging arete just right of the oak tree. Finish up the overhanging groove, just right of Gibbon's crack.
Tour de Force l5m VS **
(4c). Quality climbing. Start as for Blazing Apostles, but traverse right below the overhang for 2m, then go over a bulge and up a short corner.
Owl Cave 15m Difficult
Reputed to he a convenient descent if you can brave the brambles to find it.

JIGSAW BUTTRESS

This is the small square buttress, 20m to the right of the Dirl Chimney Area. The arete at the left hand end of the wall has been recorded as The Sucker (El. 5a) but appears both artificial and impossible at this grade without considerable recourse to either Owl Cave or Lipstick or both.

Lipstick 10m Hard Severe *
(4b) The crack just right of the arete is hard to start. It is possible to move right into the upper section of Liptrip at the same grade.
Stiff Upper Lip 22m VS**
A rising girdle. The first pitch makes an excellent Severe in its own right. Start as for Lipstick.
  • 1 12m (4a). Climb up to below the crack on Lipstick and traverse right to gain a rightwards slanting line of jugs that leads to a finish at the top of Liplet. Huge block belay.
  • 2 10m (4c). Descend slightly the corner of Ratten's Rest and traverse the horizontal break under the roofs. crossing Wall Street, and finishing as for The Groove. Beware dubious blocks.
Liptrip 10m VS *
(5a). The main groove, 1m right of Lipstick, is gained by strenuous jamming over the roof. Easier, up the chimney groove above.
Hotlips 10m VS **
Good climbing up the wall 3m to the right of Lipstick. (4c). Climb up past a huge thread to a ledge. Go up past an undercling to finish by a thin crack.
Labrum l0m El *
An interesting route up the wall to the right, just near a step up in the path.
(5a). Climb steeply to an obvious plate of rock (or gain it more easily from the right) and layback boldly to a resting place. Follow flakes to the top.

MAIN WALL

A large beaked roof dominates this area which is defined by a steep corner on the left and a fine arete on the right. Gain the foot of the wall by scrambling up from the right to Low Ledge. Another move up and left leads to High Ledge from which the following routes start. It is also possible to gain High Ledge by scrambling rightwards from the foot of Labrum.

Liplet 10m Severe 4a **
Short but sweet. Start to the left of the tree on the left end of High Ledge. and climb a short groove to a roof which is overcome with difficulty.
Ratten's Rest 10m HVS *
(5b). The short corner behind the tree is worth the considerable struggle.
Wall Street 13m El ***
A truly superb route - strenuous, technical and well protected.
(5b). Follow the thin crack just left of centre of the wall to a break and then finish up the awkward hanging groove immediately left of the roof.
The Groove 13m HVS *
(4c). The V-groove just right of centre, exiting rightwards. Beware of dubious blocks at the top of the groove.

The next four routes finish on The Esplanade which makes a convenient descent.

Novice Crack 12m VS
(4b). Start as for The Groove, but follow the awkward crack rightwards into the top of Kenny's Chimney.
Kenny's Chimney 8m Ungradeable *** (depending on one's point of view)
A classic thrutch, the grade dependent on one's girth. The crux is avoiding getting one's head stuck.
The Arete l5m El***
Exciting climbing up the arete with the prominent spike on it. Start down and right from Low Ledge at the foot of Elder Crack.
(5b). Climb up to a roof and traverse left under it. A difficult move leads round the arete and into a groove on the left. (Many parties start from Low Ledge and gain this groove easily but thus miss out the first of the climb's two cruxes).
Climb the short corner until it is possible to move right to the spike. Move up with difficulty and finish by a short crack up on the right. (The route was originally given E2, 5c, and still is if you choose not to move left into the groove after the first roof, but climb the arete direct to the jug. This is very artificial.)
Elder's Crack 15m VS **
(4b). A great little climb up the crack to the right of The Arete. Start down and right of Low Ledge directly under the crack.
Moss Trooper 20m VD
Reasonable climbing despite a heavy coating of bryophytes. Start at the foot of the Esplanade. Traverse horizontally left one metre to a wide crack and climb this to a junction with The Esplanade. Go directly up the mossy wall to a roof. Traverse right to a short groove and climb this, moving left and up to a heather ledge Finish directly up the shallow scoopy groove above.
The Esplanade 20m Difficult
Some l0m right of Elder's Crack is a left slanting gangway which forms a good descent route.

THE RED SLAB

To the right of The Esplanade is a complex area of walls and roofs half hid= den behind some pinnacles.
Pegasus 20m Hard Severe
The wall right of The Esplanade is split high up by a left slanting crack. (4b). Follow the crack to a ledge at the left end of an oak bush, and finish up a groove with jammed blocks. A direct start has been climbed, starting from the Esplanade.
Red Slab 13m VS
After a hard start, this climb deteriorates rapidly. (5a). Climb the left side of the red slab to battle through an oak tree, then climb the upper wall, traversing sharply right to finish.
D.I.Y. 15m HVS *
(5a). Climb the crack flanking the red slab on its right, followed by a hand traverse right to finish up an awkward break in the roof via a dubious block.
Toddamundo l5m E4 ***
(6a). Climb the blunt arete right of D.I.Y. to the break. A thought provoking reach from a sharp fingerhold on the roofs lip gains a strenuous and exposed upper wall. A further hard move (crux) leads to a jug at the top. A Friend 4 is advisable. Finishing up D.l.Y from the break reduces the grade to E2, 5b.
Nebula 20m El
(5b). Climb the corner right of Toddamundo, then follow a loose rising traverse rightwards beneath the roof to an awkward finish.
Crosswires 12m E1
More awkward than it looks.
(5b). Just right of Nebula is a thin groove in the left wall of the leaning tower. Finish up Nebula.
Fingerlust 12m E4 ***
(6a). The thin crack in the leaning tower gives another tremendous route; short, hut very strenuous and technical, with excellent protection (provided you can hang around and place it).

TWIN CRACKS BUTTRESS

About 100m right of the Red Slab is a buttress marked by a blasted tree in the centre near the top, and a large detached pinnacle below.
Horner Corner 8m Very Difficult
The short crack on the left side of the buttress.

The following routes all start from a ledge up under the left hand side of the buttress.

Crawl Wall 14m VS *
(4c). Climb the wall just right of the left arete of the buttress until it is possible to move right into a crack which leads to a ledge. Finish up the wide crack on the right as for the Direct.
Wiggle l5m HVS *
(5b). Start under the Direct and climb strenuously up the thin left slanting crack to join Crawl Wall.
The Direct 15m HVS *
(5a). Jam the straight meaty crack with minimal skin loss.
Crackshot I5m HVS *
(5a). From the foot of the Direct step left and move up to a ledge. Move boldly up to a second ledge and, stepping up left, finish up the wall above.

The next routes start from down and right, near the pinnacle.

Revolver 15m El *
(5b). Climb the left hand side of the obvious revolver-shaped flake to a scrawny tree. Make a hard move up left and then go right to the top. It is also possible to climb the arete behind the tree.
Bullet 15m HVS
Takes the thin crack up the right hand side of Revolver's flake. Start as for Twin Cracks. (5a). Climb to the crack and struggle up it to its top. Avoid the tree on the right and continue more easily.
Twin Cracks 15m VS **
(4b). Fine laybacking up the crack system starting just left of the pinnacle.

JUGULAR VEIN BUTTRESS

A short bushwack down and to the right leads to a steep buttress with a dou= ble tier of rooves on the left.
The Pinnacles 15m MS
At the left hand side of the buttress is a series of blocky pinnacles. Climb the pinnacles to a steep wall. Surmount this via a spiky block.
Essence of Giraffe El *
Immediately right of The Pinnacles is a lichenous groove.
(5c). Climb the groove to below the steep wall on The Pinnacles. Traverse rightwards under the overlap with a hard move to gain a foothold on the arete (tiny wires useful). An unusual move right gains a large block near the top of The Slash. Finish up this.
Beyond the Terminator 15m E3 **
(6a). At the left side of the buttress, 3m left of the central crackline of The Slash, is a slab topped by a crescent shaped roof. Climb to a rest at the top of the slab then swing out left to gain the obvious good hold. Continue directly to the top surmounting a small roof.
Moonshine l5m E2 **
(5c). Start as for Beyond the Terminator and climb the desperate slab rightwards under the first roof to a resting place. Continue the traverse rightwards, crossing The Slash and stepping onto Jugular Vein. Either finish directly up the crack above (original finish of Jugular Vein), or continue traversing to finish up a short crack in the right arete. (The grade is reduced to HVS, 5a by starting up The Slash).
The Slash l5m HVS **
(5a). The central crack is a classic of its type.
Slashshine 15m HVS **
This combination misses out the 5c start of Moonshine and gives a good pitch.
(5a). Climb the Slash for 5m, step right onto Jugular Vein and continue traversing to finish up a short crack in the right arete.
Jugular Vein l5m E1***
Fine climbing up the wall to the right of the Slash. Start up and right of that route. (5b). Climb the wall leftwards to a resting position on the arete. Step right and climb the crack above, or take the rising traverse line to the arete on the right and finish up this (finish of Moonshine). Low in the grade.

Two further routes have been claimed to the right. Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner (E4, 6a) is described as "a serious undertaking up the right arete of the buttress". However the arete is also easily climbable (VS) by bridging into the grass and holly filled groove on its right. Little Wall (E1, 5a) takes the cracked wall to the right again and is very grassy and rather pointless.

Some 300m to the right lies The Slab, an obvious feature when approaching via road. Two routes have been recorded, more are possible, none are worth the walk. Crack Up (Hard Severe) takes the crack on the left. Sunset (VS) climbs the slab trending rightwards.

THE THIRLSTANE(993 568)

The Thirlstane is a small sandstone outcrop, about 10m high, located on a shingle beach not far from Clifton. It is an excellent bouldering venue as it is very sheltered and quick to dry. The steep landward side of the crag is split by a roofless cave which offers numerous technical problems on the smooth Thirl Walls. most of which finish by squirming up through the chimney above. All the obvious lines on the walls either side of the cave have been climbed - a rope is advisable. Left of the cave, the very left arete of the crag gives an excellent juggy V Diff. The normal descent leads to the far right end of the crag, from whence a good low level traverse leads back to the arete, crossing the cave en route.

Bouldering

I don't see why not, if you're brave you can climb the short routes solo.

Getting there...

From most areas, the approach will be via the A710 south from Dumfries. A few miles before reaching Sandyhills Bay. there is an narrow lane on the right (west) and some outcrops can be seen on the hillside to the north of this lane. Follow the lane for about a mile to a small lay-by on the left just past Upper Clifton Farm. A granite stile leads into a field. Walk straigh t across this, well to the left of the farm buildings, to an angle in the far wall. A second stile is hidden some 15m to the right. Cross the next field to a gate in the far corner, under Hollowstones Wall.

Access

Please keep dogs on a lead when in the fields. In spring, peregrines often nest near The Main Area or Red Slab and these buttresses should be avoided at this time.

Local Amenities

All information on Clifton Crag and the local climbing was provided by () Stephen Reid.