CORWAR (pronounced Corvar) Near Newton Stewart (Map Ref. 483705)
This small but steep crag of compact granite has a beautiful outlook south-east over Bargaly Glen. It is fast to dry, catches plenty of afternoon sun and is quick to approach. The crag was discovered hiding in the trees by the local forest manager in spring 1997 and liberated from the dense forest that summer: hopefully the small clearing between the crag and the forest road will be allowed to remain. The rock is rough, sound and continuously steep. Protection can be tricky on some of the harder routes and a good selection of small camming devices is recommended.
Access is from the A712. Turn off the A75 onto the A712 before
Newton Stewart and drive 4=BD miles up the road to the forest road
turn-off signposted 'Corwar and Dallash'. Follow this forest
road down the hill, take the left turn at the bottom and then turn
left at the next two forked junctions. 100m beyond the last
junction the crag can be seen up through recently felled trees on
the left, about a minutes walk from the forest road.
Total walk from the A712 is about 25 minutes. A faster but more difficult approach can be made in about 10 minutes by contouring the hillside through the trees from the car park at Glen of the Bar (GR. 479707). The most obvious feature of the crag is the shallow chimney/groove near the left hand end of the main face taken by Bigger Than Tigger. Further right, the obvious right to left-slanting break, passing a smooth black niche (which at the time of writing contains a small birch sapling), is taken by Ruta Aurelio. The lengths given are the route l! engths; good tree belays lie about 10m beyond the top of the climbs. Routes are described from left to right
200m further up the glen, and visible from the forest road, is a beautiful 5m slab of granite which gives some good bouldering.
- Pinus Worship Very Difficult* 30m C Hossack, J Biggar (AL), 20th May 1998
Good but contrived climbing, taking a route up the left hand end of the crag. Climb the rib on left side of the slab beneath the obvious overhang left of Bigger Than Tigger, then the left wall of the overhang itself, finishing on an excellent hold. Climb the slab above (possible belay), move right and climb the blunt rib above on good holds.
- Bigger Than Tigger Severe* 20m J Biggar, A Owen, 13th May 1998
Climb the obvious chimney/groove near the left hand end of the crag, stepping left at the top to finish up the steep wall above on excellent holds.
- Alpamayo No More VS 4c* 25m J Biggar, SJH Reid, D Aurelio, 20th October 1999
Start up the groove of Bigger Than Tigger for 5m, then step out right. Climb the wall above, via a shallow cave, straight to the top, passing right of two small trees.
Variation - Direct Start E1 5b SJH Reid, J Biggar, 3rd May 2000
Climb the steep wall just right of Bigger Than Tigger to join the ordinary route.
- The Prune VS 4c** 30m J Biggar, L Biggar, L Cannon, 21st June 1998
An excellent sustained route. Start up the groove of Bigger Than Tigger for 5m, then follow the diagonal crackline out rightwards across the face for about 5m to join the Peach. Either finish up the shallow groove of the Peach directly above, or, better, make one move up and continue rightwards to the dark blocky scoop on the right and then move back up a left slanting ramp (finish of Ruta Aurelio) to the top.
- The Peach HVS/E1 5a/b ** 25m J Biggar, C Hossack, 17th October 1999
A climb with a definite crux! Start at the stump 5m right of Bigger Than Tigger. Climb directly up the wall until it eases and move up slightly right to a shallow groove and finish up this. The crux is low down, now protected by a peg runner. For those under 5'10" however, the crux is clipping the peg and is E1, 5b.
Variation - FRCC Finish 4c** SJH Reid, R Kenyon, D Staton, 30th April 2000
Artificial but excellent climbing. From above the peg, move up and left into the shallow cave on Alpamayo No More. Leave this on the right and climb directly up the wall above on excellent holds.
- Plum Line E2 5b*** 30m SJH Reid, J Biggar, 10th November 1999
A direct line up the highest section of the crag taking in the obvious short open pink groove/scoop at half height. Superb but bold in places. Start at the lowest rocks and climb the slabs above until stopped by a smooth bulge. Move left and up (poor peg runners) and make a difficult mantleshelf into the pink groove above (good wire low on right). Climb out of the groove on the right and make a long reach to gain easier ground. Move 1 metre up the leftwards-slanting ramp (Ruta Aurelio) and then step right onto the bulging headwall and climb this directly to the top.
- Corwar Wall HVS 5a *** 23m SJH Reid, J Biggar, 10th November 1999
An excellent and well-protected route with an exciting finish, taking the easiest line up this part of the crag. Start near the left-hand end of a narrow vegetated ledge directly beneath the smooth black niche containing a small birch sapling. Climb up a short blocky corner and move right to, and up over, a small overhang, then climb up to the left-slanting break of Ruta Aurelio. Follow this up left to just before the smooth niche containing the sapling, lunge upwards for a jug and hand-traverse back rightwards until it is possible to move up to easy slabs.
- Nutcase E2 5b * 22m SJH Reid, J Biggar, 3rd May 2000
Good, bold climbing directly up the wall between Corwah Wall and Tutti Frutti. Start at the right-hand end of the grass ledge, 3 metres right of Corwah Wall and directly under the point of the 'V' formed where the left and right-slanting overlaps meet. Climb a slim fault to a ledge and junction with Corwah Wall. Pull directly over the overhang above, 1 metre to the right of Corwah Wall, and go up to a dubious block under the overlap. Move onto this from the left, place your last gear, make a wish, and climb straight to the top.
- Tutti Frutti E1 5b** 22m SJH Reid, J Biggar, 3rd May 2000
The obvious right-slanting fault provides a good route. Start 2 metres right of Nutcase and 2 metres left of the stump at the right end of the crag. Climb straight up the wall to a short, shallow groove and up this to the dubious block under the overlap. Follow the rightward slating overlap to a thin crack and climb this to the top.
- Ruta Aurelio E1 5b** 35m S Reid, J Biggar, D Aurelio, 20th October 1999
A good climb taking the obvious right to left rising traverse in its entirety. The crux is short and well protected. Start 2 metres right of the big stump at the right hand end of the crag. Make a bold rising traverse up to the break and follow this to the smooth niche with the birch sapling. Cross the blank slab just left of the small birch (crux) to a dark blocky niche and an easy finish up the leftwards-slanting ramp.
- The Midge HVS, 5a 8m J Biggar, SJH Reid, 3rd May 2000
A midget climb, making the best of the rock on the far right of the crag. Start as for Ruta Arelio. Climb directly up the wall to a good nut in a short crack. Traverse horizontally right 3 metres and move boldly to the top.
No known access restrictions at this time.
Not yet known but there are villages all around and it isn't very far to a small town.
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