Rock Climbing in the Cuillin

Coire Lagan

Cioch Buttress is about 1000' high, so weedy Lakeland-lovers like myself have to adapt to routes on a much greater scale. For a great low-grade day, I recommend:

  • Cioch Direct
    (S) in guide book, but doing the awkward crux chimney with a rucsack it feels more like (HS).
  • followed by Arrow Route
    A (VD) slab with "spiderman" friction climbing...
... Lunch on the Cioch, and then
  • Wallwork's Route (VD) to finish.
Throwing in a bit of scrambling along the ridge afterwards is well worthwhile. Fellow English softies should note that SMC guidebook is often sparse (eg. it often fails to break routes down into pitches). Gabbro is a lot like Grit in terms of friction; gear is often spaced, I found medium hexes v. useful.

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