Ardverikie Wall
Severe, 190m *** (Classic)

A modern classic, well worth the hour and a half walk-in. Ardverikie Wall is 6 continuous pitches on near perfect rock with a backdrop of absolutely perfect scenery. Graded Severe (S 4a) the route itself is technically easy and any competent Severe leader should have no real difficulty.

Binnein Shaus (746m NN464827 OS Landranger 42) is located between Loch Laggan (A86) and the picturesque Lochan na H-Earba. The mountains/lochs are part of the Ardverikie Estate which maintains the well manicured landrover tracks. Please note that this is a working estate and that filming (Monarch of the Glen - BBC TV), stalking (shooting deer) as well as a range of other activities are continually pursued... please contact the estate office by email/phone to check if there are any access restrictions or special requests before you visit.

Getting There

From either Dalwhinnie, Spean Bridge or Newtonmore, head along the A86 until you reach Moy Bridge (NN 432830). There is a large layby in which you can park. The landrover track is clearly marked on the map and is easily traversible on a bike. If you're walking, it's likely to take you one hour to reach the beautiful beach at the head of the lochan (464814). There's a nice bridge here ideal for a picnic.

The footpath to the climbing cuts off the landrover track about 15m before you reach the beach. It contours around and gently up the hillside. Ardverikie Wall should be obvious from here: it's the beautiful, clean, straight line of rock... follow the path passed some fierce looking overhands (there's an HS up there!) and around some large boulders. The descent from the top finishes down this easy grassy gully here. Just around the corner it the start of the route (there's an eroded spot at the foot of the climb) and if you're not there early there's likely to be a pile of rucksacs, too. (NN 468826)

The Rock

Rock: micro-granite - mostly sound, lots of lichen off the route but excellent friction on clean rock. Worn clean but not polished. Most of the belays are flakes, protectable cracks are few and far between.

Useful Gear

There is an adequate amount of gear on the climb. Long slings are very handy as most belays are spikes/flakes, often with a sizeable ledge. A rack of nuts and a few items of larger crack protection (meduim hexes/size 1-2 friend). Pitch lengths are as much as 40m but don't expect to get gear every 3m!

The Route

Pitch 1 (14m)

Climb straight up the prominent rib for 9m then traverse slightly R to a blank wall beneath an overlap. Belay on the large ledge (crack).

Pitch 2 (36m)

Traverse horizontally L back to the arete before making an interesting move around the arete and into some nice cracks.

Climb directly (good gear/large holds) on steep rock (4a) until angle eases onto wall/slab above.

Climb the wall above (BOLD) directly with excellent friction to a large ledge/flake belay (comfy) on the left side of the wall.
Note: There is little gear to be found on the final 25m of this pitch however the technical grade is perhaps only Diff/VDiff.

Pitch 3 (36m)

Move up and right to climb the large flake (fun and protectable). This is probably the most technically sustained (4a-ish) part of the route. It's also the most fun and has the most gear. At the top of the flake move slightly right and then easily over the bulge. Flake belay with ledge to the side (comfy-ish).

Pitch 4 (36m)

Above the belay a diagonal, upwards and rightwards trending crack/groove (4a, crux) leads boldly to more positive holds and an easier groove (with gear) leading leftwards to a flake belay at the bottom of a large scoop (hanging: not so comfy).

Pitch 5 (15m + gentle grass)

Traverse left to the side of the scoop and the interesting flakey overlaps. Avoid all the black lichen by following the right trending curve of overlaps up then pull easily over the top to a large grassy ledge. Above the grass, a thread/nut belay can be located at the bottom of the next pitch a few metres up.

Pitch 6

Unrope, enjoy the view and scramble to the summit. Hopefully the sun is shining on the two lochs, the beach is gleaming in the sun and the eagles are drifing on the breeze (which is also keeping the horrendous midges at bay)... remember to bring a snack so you have a perfect excuse to linger over one of the best scenic views in Scotland.

Descent

Once you've completed the scramble, don your walking boots and break open the packed lunch. If there's a gentle breeze this is a superb spot to have lunch, soak up the scenery and reflect on what is genuinely and deservedly a classic climb.

To descend: Head left (SW) and up the hill slightly. You should spot a path in a large gully after 30-40m. Head for this and descent easily on the path through the heather.