Restrictions on Salisbury CragsSalisubry crags are right in the centre of Edinburgh, in Holyrood Park. It's one of the most obvious and best climbing resources the city has. However, along with Edinburgh Castle there was a climbing ban until recently. The restrictions on Salisbury Crags have been eased now though. I understand the ban on the castle is unlikely to be raised. Here's an article Mark Begbie typed in about it.
THE SCOTSMAN Tuesday, 16 August 1994 page 5 Climbers concerned by need for permit on crags. ----------------------------------------------- THE Mountaineering Council of Scotland is worried a permit requirement for climbing Edinburgh's Salisbury Crags could set a dangerous precedent. Historic Scotland has partly lifted a ban on climbing the crags imposed in 1978 because the rock faces were crumbling. It has, however, continued a ban on climbing in a challenging part of the crags because the rocks might be dangerous. As of yesterday, climbers had automatic permission to climb the South Quarry if they could produce membership cards for the Mountaineering Council of Scotland, the British Mountaineering Council or their affiliated clubs. The MC of S would not give Historic Scotland information on affiliated clubs because it disapproved of permission to climb being needed. Kevin Howett, national officer for the council, said: "You should not have a permit system because that would set a dangerous precedent for other landowners." Many mountaineering clubs did not issue membership cards, he added, and many climbers were not members of clubs. Although climbers could write for permission to the park police before climbing, Mr Howett felt climbers should not have to go through such a procedure. The decision to allow climbing came after a Historic Scotland land review of leisure use of the park. The restricted climbing would be in the interests of safety of all park users, a spokeswoman for Historic Scotland said. South Quarry was safer for other park users because it was set back from the path along the bottom of the crags known as the Radical Road. the MC of S said it was delighted at a limited lifting of a ban but wanted to see climbing allowed in the more difficult Long Quarry area. Historic Scotland ruled that out, saying safety could not be guaranteed for climbers trying various routes on the faces. That's all I know at the moment. Mark BegbieThe article is used with the kind permission of James Seaton, the editor of the Scotsman Newspaper. Their address follows.
P.O. Box 56
20 North Bridge
Edinburgh EH1 1YT
tel:- 0131-225 1505
Here's a quick snap of the climbing area that you are currently allowed to use. It is sometimes used by the Fire Brigade for training since they are continually having to rescue the unfortunate or the stupid from the crags!
There are many accidents on the crags each year. This is probably because passers-by think it looks easy and decide to be a cimber for the day - even in winter when it's icy! Don't be another statistic.