Traprain Law

The Crag...

The climbing area on the Law is North Facing but set in open, beautiful countryside. The crag normally dries fairly quicky after rainfall however there may be some seepage on certani (but not all) lines.
The crag is split into two walls:

Overhang Wall

The larger wall on the left with overhangs at ground level at the right and many overlaps in the middle at half height. This wall is home to the local classics Piglet (HVS 5b ***) and Great Corner (S ***).

Great Corner is the very obvious right angled corner in the middle of the wall.

Descent can be made on foot by walking off to the right.

Lammer Wall

The left hand wall is home to many lower grade climbs. With some excellent slabby routes in the Severe - HS range. Routes on this wall are generally less polished than those on Overhang Wall.

Descent is by abseil at the left hand side of the cliff. Remember to check the condition of any in-situ slings!

Routes

See the routes database for the latest info. Highlights are:

Overhang Wall

Great Corner (S) 15m

The large open corner in the middle of the wall. A delicate polished start.

Left Edge (HS) 15m

Start immediately right of the large leaning flake at the left edge of the wall. Climb to a sloping ledge a couple of metres up then follow a left trending diagonal crack (rhs of a coulpe of triangles) to the top with continual interest.

Wobble (VS 5a) 18m

Start a few metres right of Left Edge and climb polished holds to the small horizontal ledge at about 5m. Follow the right trending fault through the small black overlap then straight up through anoter bulge. FInish on easier ground above (trending right). A brilliant route with great positions!

Piglet (HVS 5b) 18m

Fake Route (S) 15m

Several metres to the right of Great Corner you'll see a bush at half height. Fake route follows the left slanting diagonal crack from the bottom to the top. The crux is the steep section in the middle. Worthwhile.

Lammer Wall

With the exception of the blank face at the left hand side of the chimney almost all of the wall can be climbed at HS or lower. There is ample gear and routes are varied and interesting.

Getting There

Whereever you're travelling from, Traprain Law is to be found just outside East Linton which is on the A1. Head either North or South along the A1 to East Linton and then take a small road South (Traprain Law is signposted here).

Follow the small road past a couple of farms then past another farm building with a large red brick chimney. Traprain Law is signposted at the next junction but don't take it (this is for the route to the top). Take the next road on the right (on and after after a sharp corner)... it passes a farm building with another large chimney and odl-fashioned farm tools on the wall... continue until you see the crag and park at a convenient path (Historic Scotland) to the Law.

East Lintno is 40 minutes drive from Edinburgh.

Bouldering

Not a lot of point bouldering here - there aren't too many hard problems, however if it's bouldering you want there's nothing to stop you. There is plenty scope for low level traverses and it's close to the road.

Amenities

East Linton has a nice pub or two but not much else... Haddington (just up the A1 towards Edinburgh) has all the usual amenities.

Access

Other than keeping to the path there are no access issues.