Buchaillie Etive Mor
The Boockle is a fabulous rock climbing venue with the most popular areas of the mountain easily accessible from the car-park by the roadside. Almost without exception all the climbs are multi-pitch with some fine classics in the lower grades and others for which any mortal being would surely require wings.
Buchaille Etive Mor is a very complex mountain and for climbers who are not paying attention it's really quite easy to end up at the wrong crag. Which is embarrassing.
I will try to provide a diagram here but getting hold of a guidebook is ideal. The two I'd recommend are:
- SMC Climbing Guide to Glencoe
- Rock Climbing in Scotland, Kev Howett, Constable, 9-780094-796102
Until I get a diagram drawn, here's a description of the topology looking at the mountain from the junction to Glen Etive...
The huge buttress/face in the middle of the mountain is the North Buttress. At it's lowest and left-most point is a redish coloured face of good rock; this is East Face. The North Buttress is bounded on the left (as you look at it) by Crowberry Gully to the left of which lies Crowberry Ridge itself bounded by Easy Gully on its left. The fine face to the left of this is Rannoch Wall.
North Buttress is bounded on its right by Great Gully. Slime Wall is the steep wall in the upper reaches of this gully - you can't see the wall from the roadside.
Amenities, Pubs, Travelling
All that stuff is described in: